Guldstrand 5 Link, Anyone Anywhere Installed?
- Thread starter Vettezuki
- Start date
SuperBuickGuy
Well-known member
thanks... I needed a quick break from the long-term projects I'm doing
SuperBuickGuy
Well-known member
Time to resurrect this thread.
I'm about to jump the tank, as it were, with my IRS.
To recap, my rear differential is either missing (or it's severely damaged) clip on the side yoke (probably the left side).
My plan, today, is eliminate the driveshafts as the upper control arm. I plan on putting an upper rod from the top of the trailing arm to a pivot point above the differential.
At the same time, I'm rebuilding the bearings and replacing the front rubber with a johnny joint.
In my research, I'm going to put the upper mount perpendicular to the lower mount, the inside mount will be 16 1/2" from the outer mount. That should give me similar, but better camber.
Am I missing anything? (I hate pulling the car apart again, but it's frightening to drive, so, rather than wreck it, I'll "fix" it).
I'm about to jump the tank, as it were, with my IRS.
To recap, my rear differential is either missing (or it's severely damaged) clip on the side yoke (probably the left side).
My plan, today, is eliminate the driveshafts as the upper control arm. I plan on putting an upper rod from the top of the trailing arm to a pivot point above the differential.
At the same time, I'm rebuilding the bearings and replacing the front rubber with a johnny joint.
In my research, I'm going to put the upper mount perpendicular to the lower mount, the inside mount will be 16 1/2" from the outer mount. That should give me similar, but better camber.
Am I missing anything? (I hate pulling the car apart again, but it's frightening to drive, so, rather than wreck it, I'll "fix" it).
68/70Vette
Well-known member
I rebuilt the rear suspension on my 68 pretty much stock and didn't think anything about the basic suspension design. And also, my 70. However, after reading a lot of suspension posts, like this one, as I bolted up my 70 rear suspension, I realized this is an archaic design. The C2/C3 rear suspension which first appeared in 1963 was probably designed in 1960 and 1961. If the half-axles are parallel to the ground, every thing in the rear suspension lines up correctly. However, you can see that as the half axles move up and down, so many things go out of alignment. Rubber bushings on the strut rods and shock absorbers deflect to work with the misalignments. In retrospect, I should have looked into the Guildstrand 5 link or more modern Corvette IRS. Too late now. With the exception that I have a 10 bolt diff in my 70, all the rest of the stuff is Tom's tuff stuff...30/31 splines, tuned diff case, big axles, etc.
SuperBuickGuy
Well-known member
I just wonder if I can get 90% there with simply an upper control arm and losing the driveshafts as a suspension control device
JeffP1167
Well-known member
Why not just put a c4 rear suspension in? Be far more cost effective.
mfain
Well-known member
I posted some time back on the 6-link thread. I am removing the C-4 based suspension from my C-1 (pictured) in favor of a 5-link that does away with the half shaft as a suspension member. Inspired by the Can Am cars of the 60s, I wanted to keep the forward links to absorb the thrust and braking forces along the longitudinal axis of the car (with complete anti-dive/anti-squat adjustability) and use the lateral links for cornering loads and to provide roll center and camber adjustments. I developed a geometry illustrated in the two pictures of a scale mock-up that is bind free and gives all of the adjustability I needed (in addition to toe and bumpsteer adjustment). The only real issue is that the forward pivot point of the lower control arm must be completely adjustable in multiple axises to keep it in perfect alignment if adjustments are made with either the lower forward link or the aft lower control arm pivot -- not impossible, but it makes adjustments a little harder. Using a C6 upright required a lower control arm to prevent sideways rotation of the ball joint and to have a place to pick up the coil-over loads. For those of you so inclined, the C6 upright could be replaced with a fabricated upright using C-3 geometry/bearings and you could use half shafts with slip joints instead of axles with CVs. I will use high-horsepower axles with CV joints built by the Drive Shaft Shop with SKF ZR1 bearings. Comments?
I like the mock-up. Quick and effective method for sure.
I does look like it would take some tweaking to get it right but, once done, should be pretty stable.
I does look like it would take some tweaking to get it right but, once done, should be pretty stable.
SuperBuickGuy
Well-known member
I like that - there are some are trying to convince me to simply go with an a-arm arrangement (or 8.8 IRS Ford) - but I have plans for my car that include a lot more hp, so maintaining the 4 link style front connections is important. Thus, I really like what you've done
mrvette
Phantom of the Opera
Here is my install, I like it a lot. Clearly easier than building a full custom rear end. Rides great plants power very well and is very predictable has upgraded 502 Ram Jet power and 315/35-17 tires.
HUMM....I focus in a tad better and find you stuck with the steel spring, most guys are going VBP of some # rating, as I did nearly 20 years ago, so I wonder why??
:beer:
rtj
Well-known member
- Joined
- Nov 5, 2011
- Messages
- 3,181
Here is my install, I like it a lot. Clearly easier than building a full custom rear end. Rides great plants power very well and is very predictable has upgraded 502 Ram Jet power and 315/35-17 tires.
HUMM....I focus in a tad better and find you stuck with the steel spring, most guys are going VBP of some # rating, as I did nearly 20 years ago, so I wonder why??
:beer:
One reason I have avoided them, steel won't break easily. When I snapped the rear axle the spring helped carry the weight.
mrvette
Phantom of the Opera
Here is my install, I like it a lot. Clearly easier than building a full custom rear end. Rides great plants power very well and is very predictable has upgraded 502 Ram Jet power and 315/35-17 tires.
HUMM....I focus in a tad better and find you stuck with the steel spring, most guys are going VBP of some # rating, as I did nearly 20 years ago, so I wonder why??
:beer:
One reason I have avoided them, steel won't break easily. When I snapped the rear axle the spring helped carry the weight.
Which leaf broke?? the main bottom one?? I have seen many an intermediate leaf break on all sorts of vehicles, but never any on a C3.....but then again I not work long at a vette shop.....:shocking:
Sam Cogley
Well-known member
Factory Corvette springs have been fiberglas for a long time. The VB&P dual-mount under my '77 had a hard life under a race car before I got it, and it's still going strong.
Sweet ride. :beer:
Sweet ride. :beer:
