My '76 restoration (long post)

First a flash back from my previous post.
Here the contact pin I had to made redone. For a reason that escape me, the stock one was waaay too short.
interior-6-horncontact_zps995794c1.jpg


interior-7-horncontact2_zps83ebb5b6.jpg

Sorry the original one was nowhere to be found at the time of picture, but it was at least 3/8" shorter.


So I got sick for the moment doing bodywork. Too hot anyway. So I got back to the interior.

I'm getting better at the polishing, spent some time on the T-bar chrome trim I just bought. It was (almost) dentless, but full of scratches.

interior-4-Polishing_zps82a1ea1d.jpg

interior-5-Polishing2_zpsdff1b01a.jpg

Still not perfect, deepest scratches still shows. I'll make a second pass, I just didn't want to rush it.

Then I decided to reinstall my driver side dash.
I decided to redo them once again.
-Repaint the back from blue to white to match led backlight.
-Installed a ring of led in the backside, will be hooked to a dedicated dimmer.
-Stripped the chrome rings, re-polished the edges, repainted it black semi flat.
-Repainted the pad itself the Corvette correct "Landau Black"
-Finished wiring my headlight actuating signal wire, when I first did the mod it was rather hacked.
-Polished the plastic screens.
-I cut the pesky tab on the column support that force the ODO strip reset cable to an hard blend. So hard in my cable it couldn't function. At first I though I did something wrong, checking and checking again. A search on the web revealed it's a original GM loosy design that stuck. Boy this one got me nervous.

interior-3-dashinstalled_zpsbec67aac.jpg


Bonus pic, you gotta love NOS parts :
interior-2-NOS_zps03b3489b.jpg
 
Not much done this weekend, I'm reviewing my electric harness, I'd like to reconnect the battery ASAP.
In the meanwhile my machinist found time to make me something I told him about a while ago :

Rear crossmember stabilizer discs

rearcrossmemberstabilizer_zps4755bdb4.jpg


Some may remember my ghetto laser level.
Well, something it's not even worth ghettoing.
I snatched this on my way to the market, the guys was running a small garage sell on his front porch, 10$.
laserlevel_zpsf7b1bd69.jpg

Cost me as much in battery, works like a charm.
 
It happened an hour ago: the engine cranked!
Except occasional maintenance hand crankings, the engine haven't moved for almost 3 years.

I've sorted out all the electrical bug I've encountered so far, a mix of missing ground, unconnected wires and DOA light bulbs.
I had to reposition the ignition switch which was too much backward and the rod couldn't get it fully engaged.

Feels good to know the electrical of the car is 60% done and enough to get it started.

No weird noise from the starter, looks it is sufficiently engaged, let's hope it's not too much. I wish I checked that when doing my T5 mod.

I've check the dizzy, it gets juice, so it should just need some gas to start for good.

Checked so far :
-Headlight motors
-Ignition (switch, starter and dizzy.
-Brake indicator light
-Flasher
-Headlights
-Brake light (from handbrake and ignition switch)
-Bright indicator/dimmer switch conversion
-Dash lights
-Window motors
-Blower
-rear storage light

Still to be checked :
-RPM gauge
-Fuel tank sensor
-seatbelt indicator
-open door switch
-Courtesy lights
-trunk light
-Backup up light (can't get the T5 into reverse, may have to let the tranny turn a little for that)
-wiper motor, still have to look at how let them run without the windshield. If I remember correctly the wiper motor has a lot of torque.
-Radiator fan
-cowl flap actuator.

Next weekend sounds like a good time to let the beast roar again
rock.gif
 
Today was the day.
The vette has finally been started.
Michel, Sylvain and Jo came to help, thanks guys!
Didn't take that long for the carb to fill in. It first ran on 7 leg, because of the timing light connector.
Once the header paint has cooked and the fogging oil have been burned up, we saw no smoked.
After I tuned the clutch I even put it in first have have to make its first meter on its own power.
Two year in a row I've been bragging about the fact it would run very soon.
Well, now it's done.

[ame]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NlKL77XK8NE[/ame]

[ame]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6elmtpORhOw[/ame]

[ame]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=USrqEgmvGSM[/ame]

[ame]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jENfOE3sA7o[/ame]


Pictures by Sylvain (this mofo has such a better camera!)

DSC02215_zps8a055b7d.jpg


DSC02217_zpscc73dd6c.jpg


DSC02211_zps4ef7d8f9.jpg


You gotta love my ViseGrip/Shifter handle.
DSC02212_zps289fd509.jpg



DSC02216_zps0393e7b1.jpg


The power steering side didn't go that smooth, I'll post detail about that later.
For now it's time to celebrate, BBQ time!!!
 
Fastphil said:
Congratulations! Always cool to see an engine come back to life. Gotta love the sound of the cog drive. Can't wait to see/hear it running on all 8!
Click to expand...
Thanks Phil, and wait no more :

This video was taken just when the above video finish.
Once the engine is warm it keeps the idle.

[ame]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0CAWEkjX3VY[/ame]
 
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SuperBuickGuy said:
excellent
Click to expand...

phantomjock said:
Ahh - Soon for me -- I wish and hope.
Regarding the previous photo of engine bay -- "The Gauges"
http://i1248.photobucket.com/albums/hh481/denpovette/DSC02216_zps0393e7b1.jpg
Are they (2 - I guess) Power steering pressure and Brake - or??
An Inquiring Mind wants to know.

Nice Start-up too - Cheers Jim
Click to expand...
Thanks Jim, thank Aaron.

Gauges are mechanical oil pressure and water temp.
I plan on putting electric sender back since I want to make my own digital gauges, but so far I reused the mismatched set that came with the car.
We didn't really take time to see how hot the engine get. Concerning the oil pressure it seems to follow a rule of 20 psi by 1000 RPM.
I read it's supposed to be 10 psi by 1000 RPM.
Maybe then engine has been rebuilt with some kind of high pressure oil pump.what you guys think?
 
I mentioned earlier that I was still having problem with my Borgeson steering box. Well turned out I hooked it up the wrong way, doh.
Redid the hose, fired it up yesterday, and it's all good.
I also had problem with the reverse speed, it was the shifter that wasn't allowing enough travel, once adjusted, all the speed are
engaging nicely.

If I was living in the country side, with no cops around, I could take the car for a little spin, since it now runs, stops and turns as expected.
As I live is a rather crowded area, I'll have to wait until I put the taillight, the licence plate and the front flasher back on to do so.
 
1Michel said:
denpo said:
I mentioned earlier that I was still having problem with my Borgeson steering box. Well turned out I hooked it up the wrong way, doh.
Click to expand...

Oh, I missed that one. lol
Click to expand...
No you didn't buddy.
As Sylvain said on CF I should have listened to you.
You mentioned the hypothesis, but I was way too cocksure I had it right.:tomato:
Thank you again, you really nutured the car back to life, double checking everything and nipping problems in the bud.
The power steering leak we saw was probably due to overfill, No more leaks so far.
 
Awesome, great to see you got it back to life !!!!!

Oil pressure? With cold oil you can see 70 or 80 psi when you rev it to 2500 rpm , as much as 50 psi at idle depending on what oil you use .... It's probably a high pressure/high volume pump if you see that much pressure, I'm using the melling hv pump that is advertized to deliver 25% extra volume, i am soon downgrading to the 10% extra volume pump, think the number is 10551 or so ... Once the oil is hot it's all good but when cold it's stupid high pressure....

Now the reason for the HV pump is the better stronger housing, the stock Melling pumps have very weak castings, I have a thread with photos on that topic ....
http://www.vettemod.com/forum/showthread.php?t=9074&highlight=Pump+casting
 
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