big2bird
Charter Member, Founder Bird-Run, Cruise-In Bird-R
Wanna bet?
I've seen that on a lot of race car pics. Hell, I think Howard's car was that way.
[(if I did this right) my water lines run from the center lower head bolts to the water pump and from the front to the rear of the intake, remember I have 18* heads
Actually most if not all 18 deg heads come with a boss or a pad there to drill for the outlet. It's not that big a deal, simple NPT fitting. Next to impossible to screw up.
I've seen that on a lot of race car pics. Hell, I think Howard's car was that way.
ask and ye shall receive (if I did this right) my water lines run from the center lower head bolts to the water pump and from the front to the rear of the intake, remember I have 18* heads
I am not comfortable with drilling my Brodix heads.
I am not comfortable with drilling my Brodix heads.
We already know that one.:rofl::rofl:
Dang Howard thanks for posting those pic's, because there is something i did not think of. Why should i run lines to a raised T/Stat housing,when i can run the same set up you have, water line from the back of the intake to the front of the intake. Any reason why i cannot do this???
My intake has the holes in it already. I am not comfortable with drilling my Brodix heads.
Howard said (if i did this right) so i assumed he did the drilling.
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Actually most if not all 18 deg heads come with a boss or a pad there to drill for the outlet. It's not that big a deal, simple NPT fitting. Next to impossible to screw up.
I'm going to disagree with that. You can easily pop (crack) aluminum overtightening a tapered fitting. Teflon tape is discouraged as it lubricates too well and thus provides too much pressure on the hole per a given torque.
Howard said (if i did this right) so i assumed he did the drilling.
These mods are circle track/dirt tricks and have more risk than reward (in my opinion) for a street engine for the reasons i stated early on. I wouldn't drill any holes in anything.
I know you like doing this kind of thing because it gives the "race car" look you want.
look at the auction below for a Chevy Nascar race block, find the pic of the side of the block...see that adapter sticking out of the block? in Nascar and probably SCCA GT-1/Trans-Am they run a rather large water line (looks like a -10) from there to the water pump...
http://www.ebay.com/itm/SB2-2-Dry-S...661175&pt=Race_Car_Parts&vxp=mtr#ht_682wt_932
OK. I am lost now. Howard has a pic of engine with coolant lines running from the back of the intake to the front of the intake, I have these holes in my intake,should i do this? OR should i use the raised T/Stat housing i have,and run the lines from the back of the intake to the T/Stat housing. Will any of these help me with keeping the engine cool??
OK. I am lost now. Howard has a pic of engine with coolant lines running from the back of the intake to the front of the intake, I have these holes in my intake,should i do this? OR should i use the raised T/Stat housing i have,and run the lines from the back of the intake to the T/Stat housing. Will any of these help me with keeping the engine cool??
Those lines equalize the temps front to rear, rear always tends to run a little hotter because cold coolant comes in front. For a street car, waste o time IMO