big2bird
Charter Member, Founder Bird-Run, Cruise-In Bird-R
All of the pics are back up on page 1I will post more as i go.
:clap::clap::clap::clap::clap:
new build pics of 409
- Thread starter kwplot34
- Start date
:clap::clap::clap::clap::clap:
kwplot34
Heart Attack
OK. Here are pics of one of the heads. They are Brodix IK200. The head gasket is a fel pro 1004.
Close up of the water passage between the 2 center cylinders. NOTE. i have not drilled out ant of the gasket passages yet,thats next on the list of things to do.
testing for push rod length. look OK? the right is intake,left is exhaust.
Close up of the water passage between the 2 center cylinders. NOTE. i have not drilled out ant of the gasket passages yet,thats next on the list of things to do.
testing for push rod length. look OK? the right is intake,left is exhaust.
kwplot34
Heart Attack
And YES, if the wife knew i had this on the kitchen table. :goodnight:
DARROW 74
Well-known member
Wait till I see her!
PS this 400 under my bench alerady had the 40 over bore. never been ran.
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SmokinBBC
Well-known member
I was going to askj about that.....LOL
CNC BLOCKS
Well-known member
OK. Here are pics of one of the heads. They are Brodix IK200. The head gasket is a fel pro 1004.
Close up of the water passage between the 2 center cylinders. NOTE. i have not drilled out ant of the gasket passages yet,thats next on the list of things to do.
testing for push rod length. look OK? the right is intake,left is exhaust.
Wow with the hole not being drilled in the center of the decks that would cause a lot of water restriction in the center head from what I can tell, Try putting the gasket on the block and see how it looks?
turtlevette
The Turdle
I've been doing some research on this. I knew i had seen something on this before. I have 2 chevy power manuals 5th ed and 7th ed. The 7th edition page 62 has a note and drawings on this mod. I tried taking a picture of the page but that came out terrible. I'll try and scan later. Its almost impossible to understand without the drawings.
There are 2 ways to do it. Both methods require the same head drilling plan. I don't think anyone but a machine shop who has done this before should even try. Someone who has done many of them. Carl??
The two holes must intersect to form a V shaped passage in the head that come close to the center 2 exhaust valves. Its a cooling stream. If the holes are not drilled perfectly they will not intersect and you have a failure. The holes go deep into the head all the way through the cooling jacket.
Howards setup is a little harder to do. The upper hole that penetrates the water jacket must be tubed (ie sealed off from the water jacket) otherwise you have nothing but a connection from one part of the water jacket to another where there will not be any differential pressure. So once you have the hole drilled, you have to press in a tube/sleeve. The higher pressure coolant from the pump flows into the top hole passing through the water jacket via the tube where the coolant flows to the intersection with the other hole then reverses path back and empties into the water jacket where the pressure is lower.
The second method supplies coolant from the normal hole in the deck. The head's coolant passage has to be tapped and plugged (in addition to the previous 2 holes being drilled) to force coolant to flow through the custom drilled V passage. This forces coolant from the deck in the reverse direction (from the above method) through the V shaped drilled passage.
Like i said you really have to study the drawings for about 30 minutes to understand the whole thing.
I apologize for any confusion i might have created earlier. This mod has NOTHING to do with the steam hole mods that are often drilled in the heads on siamesed blocks.
The scan should now be attached. You need to download and zoom in to see the drawings.
There are 2 ways to do it. Both methods require the same head drilling plan. I don't think anyone but a machine shop who has done this before should even try. Someone who has done many of them. Carl??
The two holes must intersect to form a V shaped passage in the head that come close to the center 2 exhaust valves. Its a cooling stream. If the holes are not drilled perfectly they will not intersect and you have a failure. The holes go deep into the head all the way through the cooling jacket.
Howards setup is a little harder to do. The upper hole that penetrates the water jacket must be tubed (ie sealed off from the water jacket) otherwise you have nothing but a connection from one part of the water jacket to another where there will not be any differential pressure. So once you have the hole drilled, you have to press in a tube/sleeve. The higher pressure coolant from the pump flows into the top hole passing through the water jacket via the tube where the coolant flows to the intersection with the other hole then reverses path back and empties into the water jacket where the pressure is lower.
The second method supplies coolant from the normal hole in the deck. The head's coolant passage has to be tapped and plugged (in addition to the previous 2 holes being drilled) to force coolant to flow through the custom drilled V passage. This forces coolant from the deck in the reverse direction (from the above method) through the V shaped drilled passage.
Like i said you really have to study the drawings for about 30 minutes to understand the whole thing.
I apologize for any confusion i might have created earlier. This mod has NOTHING to do with the steam hole mods that are often drilled in the heads on siamesed blocks.
The scan should now be attached. You need to download and zoom in to see the drawings.
Attachments
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kwplot34
Heart Attack
All holes have been drilled. In the deck and the head gasket.
This is not my idea of a good time,but it came in within a 1/2 degree.
This is not my idea of a good time,but it came in within a 1/2 degree.
big2bird
Charter Member, Founder Bird-Run, Cruise-In Bird-R
:1st::1st::1st::1st::1st::1st:
CNC BLOCKS
Well-known member
All holes have been drilled. In the deck and the head gasket.
This is not my idea of a good time,but it came in within a 1/2 degree.
I think that will make for a much happier engine when built and running.:thumbs:
MYBAD79
Moderator
:1st::1st:
awesome, now it's time to get the beast between the fenders !!!
awesome, now it's time to get the beast between the fenders !!!
CNC BLOCKS
Well-known member
Are you planning on dynoing this engine before installing?
kwplot34
Heart Attack
I would like to. BUT,i do not have one or know anybody that has one.
Here is a question. fuel pump push rod,comp cam 4607.will fit up the bore about a 1/2 inch and then gets stuck. now if you flip it around and send the wrong end up,it will fit. i guess the end that rides on the cam,looks to be bronze,is a bigger diameter.
Any suggestions??
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big2bird
Charter Member, Founder Bird-Run, Cruise-In Bird-R
It's been dropped on the bronze end. Throw it in the trash. You don't need it.
kwplot34
Heart Attack
I don't need it, as in, i don't need a push rod? OR i don't need one with a bronze end?
Just went out and tried it in the motor i pulled out, and it fits just fine in that block. and the push rod out of the old motor fits in the new motor. I do have to have the bronze tip for this cam.
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big2bird
Charter Member, Founder Bird-Run, Cruise-In Bird-R
Those cam manufacturers say the same BS about bronze dizzy gears, and they aren't necessary either.
You have seen what happens to those POS gears also.
Twin_Turbo
Der Maulwurf
- Joined
- Mar 5, 2008
- Messages
- 7,575
Have you seen what happens to stock gears? Just get a billet cam with a pressed on cast iron end.
kwplot34
Heart Attack
OK. I will use the push rod out of the old motor then. and if eats the cam, there is $400.00 gone. thats how much that cam cost.
Im gonna call comp.
big2bird
Charter Member, Founder Bird-Run, Cruise-In Bird-R
Yes. Melonized gears work fine. Carbon fiber and bronze gears are trash.
kwplot34
Heart Attack
I did have an iron gear pressed on my cam.
