new build pics of 409

I do have to have the bronze tip for this cam.

Those cam manufacturers say the same BS about bronze dizzy gears, and they aren't necessary either.
You have seen what happens to those POS gears also.

OK. I will use the push rod out of the old motor then. and if eats the cam, there is $400.00 gone. thats how much that cam cost.

Im gonna call comp.

That fuel pump doesn't have 1/10th the pressure on that cam the valve springs do.
 
Just got off the phone with Comp cams. I have to run the bronze tip,or else,and then my warranty is worthless. they suggested that i sand down the bronze end.

It has to be my block,because it slides right in my other block,i pulled out my gun cleaning kit and run a wire brush up the bore,and its clean.
 
Just got off the phone with Comp cams. I have to run the bronze tip,or else,and then my warranty is worthless. they suggested that i sand down the bronze end.
I know the spiel. With a bronze gear and pushrod, they know it won't wear the cam. :tth:

If you made cams, you'd say the same thing.:pprrtt:

A stock pump rod is softer than the cam, and works just like a solid lifter, and spins in the bore.:amused:
 
I do have to have the bronze tip for this cam.

Those cam manufacturers say the same BS about bronze dizzy gears, and they aren't necessary either.
You have seen what happens to those POS gears also.

OK. I will use the push rod out of the old motor then. and if eats the cam, there is $400.00 gone. thats how much that cam cost.

Im gonna call comp.


If your running a billet cam core you need the bronze tip on the cam or it will eat itself up, If its a cast cam steel tip goes on the cam.

I have used MSD steel gears on billet cores with zero problems but they are melonized gears.
 
If your running a billet cam core you need the bronze tip on the cam or it will eat itself up, If its a cast cam steel tip goes on the cam.

I have used MSD steel gears on billet cores with zero problems but they are melonized gears.

Here is the pushrod recommended by Chevy for billet/roller cams. (Notice the lack of bronze on the tip).


https://store.gmperformanceparts.com/store/SelectProd.do?prodId=7522&redir=true&manufacturer=GM&category=Fuel%20Systems%20&%20Superchargers&name=Fuel%20pump%20pushrod%20&model=<!--3704817--
 
Crane made the billet cams for GMPP like the ZZ4, willing to bet that pushrod is one of theirs also.? They do not list anything other than a bronze tipped one however. The GM one must have undergone some heat treating process to make it compatible. It's in the warranted ZZ4, fastburn and what not roller engines.
 
Just got off the phone with Comp cams. I have to run the bronze tip,or else,and then my warranty is worthless. they suggested that i sand down the bronze end.
I know the spiel. With a bronze gear and pushrod, they know it won't wear the cam. :tth:

If you made cams, you'd say the same thing.:pprrtt:

A stock pump rod is softer than the cam, and works just like a solid lifter, and spins in the bore.:amused:

All of this may well be true. BUT, the push rod is pretty cheap. And to keep my warranty i am going to run it. it certainly wont hurt anything.
 
If your running a billet cam core you need the bronze tip on the cam or it will eat itself up, If its a cast cam steel tip goes on the cam.

I have used MSD steel gears on billet cores with zero problems but they are melonized gears.

Here is the pushrod recommended by Chevy for billet/roller cams. (Notice the lack of bronze on the tip).


https://store.gmperformanceparts.com/store/SelectProd.do?prodId=7522&redir=true&manufacturer=GM&category=Fuel%20Systems%20&%20Superchargers&name=Fuel%20pump%20pushrod%20&model=<!--3704817--

Thats for the billet cams chevy uses in there engines, I don't think the OP is uesing a GM cam core in his build!!!

I have seen to many guys use a standard Chevy push rod with an after market billet cam core it only works for a short time.
 
I don't have the pics but I recently had an issue on a 406, timing was all over the place and it turned out to be the idizzy. the comp billet cam had eaten away the distributor gear to a knife edge. Replaced it with a composite, so good so far, hopefully it'll last some time. There must be a difference in these steel cores.

If you don't want the bronze, why not get one of those roller tipped ones?
 
All dist gears and pump push rods are designed to be sacrificial, no matter what type.

Here's a knife edge and complete failure, rotor stopped turning.

WornDistGear1.jpg

Here is a mod worth doing. .030" x .030" cut in land, aimed at the cam/dist gear mesh, for positive oiling.

heislot3.jpg
 
just lay some 400 grit wet/dry sandpaper on a very flat surface, like a pane of glass. Give it a haircut until it fits.

i sanded it down last night with some emery cloth wrapped around it. it fits now,but still just a little snug,so im going to take some more off tonight.

And my cam is not a GM cam. It is a comp billet cam.
 
Thats for the billet cams chevy uses in there engines, I don't think the OP is uesing a GM cam core in his build!!!

And the difference between a billet steel blank ground by Chevy, and a billet steel blank ground by Comp Cams is....................? (Just curious).
 
Thats for the billet cams chevy uses in there engines, I don't think the OP is uesing a GM cam core in his build!!!

And the difference between a billet steel blank ground by Chevy, and a billet steel blank ground by Comp Cams is....................? (Just curious).

Most of the after market billet cam cores I use are coated with copper between the lobes for heat treat and have not seen a GM billet cam core like that.

I don't thinks GM is using an 8620 billet cam core
 
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On the old style flat tappet cams, the cam is about Rockell 50-55, and the lifters are about Rockwell 60.
Anyone know the specs for billet/roller cams?
 
I don't have the pics but I recently had an issue on a 406, timing was all over the place and it turned out to be the idizzy. the comp billet cam had eaten away the distributor gear to a knife edge. Replaced it with a composite, so good so far, hopefully it'll last some time. There must be a difference in these steel cores.

If you don't want the bronze, why not get one of those roller tipped ones?

I had the same problem with my 406 last year, but I just replaced the gear with a new MSD part. Which composite gear did you use? I need to check that new gear to make sure it isn't happening again!

To the OP: I have a brand new Comp roller fuel pump push rod that I will sell to you for half price + shipping. :beer:
 
I don't have the pics but I recently had an issue on a 406, timing was all over the place and it turned out to be the idizzy. the comp billet cam had eaten away the distributor gear to a knife edge. Replaced it with a composite, so good so far, hopefully it'll last some time. There must be a difference in these steel cores.

If you don't want the bronze, why not get one of those roller tipped ones?

I had the same problem with my 406 last year, but I just replaced the gear with a new MSD part. Which composite gear did you use? I need to check that new gear to make sure it isn't happening again!

Composite gears are crap. It will disentigrate just as fast as the bronze gear. Use a Melonized GM gear. No worries.
 
I don't have the pics but I recently had an issue on a 406, timing was all over the place and it turned out to be the idizzy. the comp billet cam had eaten away the distributor gear to a knife edge. Replaced it with a composite, so good so far, hopefully it'll last some time. There must be a difference in these steel cores.

If you don't want the bronze, why not get one of those roller tipped ones?

I had the same problem with my 406 last year, but I just replaced the gear with a new MSD part. Which composite gear did you use? I need to check that new gear to make sure it isn't happening again!

Composite gears are crap. It will disentigrate just as fast as the bronze gear. Use a Melonized GM gear. No worries.

I use alot of MSD steel gears with billet cams in circle track engines and so for no issues. Now some guys that have problems never get the dist. shimed correctly .
 
Thats for the billet cams chevy uses in there engines, I don't think the OP is uesing a GM cam core in his build!!!

And the difference between a billet steel blank ground by Chevy, and a billet steel blank ground by Comp Cams is....................? (Just curious).

Most of the after market billet cam cores I use are coated with copper between the lobes for heat treat and have not seen a GM billet cam core like that.

I don't thinks GM is using an 8620 billet cam core

food for thought there is only 2 cam core blank manufactures.
so take a guess where gm,comp.crane.etc..... get there blanks
 
Thats for the billet cams chevy uses in there engines, I don't think the OP is uesing a GM cam core in his build!!!

And the difference between a billet steel blank ground by Chevy, and a billet steel blank ground by Comp Cams is....................? (Just curious).

Most of the after market billet cam cores I use are coated with copper between the lobes for heat treat and have not seen a GM billet cam core like that.

I don't thinks GM is using an 8620 billet cam core

food for thought there is only 2 cam core blank manufactures.
so take a guess where gm,comp.crane.etc..... get there blanks

ONLY thing I know is NEVER buy a cam from TPIS the lousy bastards....fuck 'em forever.....they caused me untold grief over their shitty cam, they can go to hell, far as I"m concerned....

roller cam failure, when is the last or ONLY time you ever seen a roller cam fail because of metallurgy problems, as in worn out surface on the cam?? enough to cause a raggedy assed idle, too boot come and go??

changed the cam, and problems disappeared....

Myron Contrell can go to hell....

:hissyfit::club:
 

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