SRountree
Well-known member
That looks great!
Plastic Fantastic 2
- Thread starter SuperBuickGuy
- Start date
SuperBuickGuy
Well-known member
no pictures, but I got the frame on stands and cut the holders off then touched up the paint .... tomorrow start hanging parts
phantomjock
Well-known member
Looks really Nice! But I didn't see a paint can on the bench, and don't think you said what you used before on the truck(?). One part or 2?
Busy-bodies want to know.
Cheers - Jim
Busy-bodies want to know.
Cheers - Jim
SuperBuickGuy
Well-known member
Looks really Nice! But I didn't see a paint can on the bench, and don't think you said what you used before on the truck(?). One part or 2?
Busy-bodies want to know.
Cheers - Jim
Yep, it's the stuff I pictured a few pages back - KBS coating. It's held up very well against salt and four wheeling on my FJ40. I like it better then powder coating because it can be touched up - or like this time, I still need to weld the cage to the frame; but to do that, I need to have the body attached to the frame - so I'll grind through the coating to weld then repaint the attachment point.
It's only 1 part if you don't need UV protection. That said, from a bare frame, you etch the steel, then spray on the KBS protectant coating. The next layer is either paint or black top... but since all of this is going to be inches off the ground - I'm not going to bother.
phantomjock
Well-known member
Hey - Thanks.
That sounds a lot like the POR-15 application process - but adds the etch. Same-same regarding a UV cover etc.
Thanks!
Cheers - Jim
That sounds a lot like the POR-15 application process - but adds the etch. Same-same regarding a UV cover etc.
Thanks!
Cheers - Jim
SuperBuickGuy
Well-known member
it is, but I'm not a fan of POR15 - it's barely better then equipment paint
time to add parts
if you're ever replacing C5 or C6 upper control arms.... the long slot goes to the front
clean, even
the center of gravity at that moment
missed squeezing through by one alternator width
almost a complete frame - with not one bolt tightened (outside of the front cradle
time to add parts
if you're ever replacing C5 or C6 upper control arms.... the long slot goes to the front
clean, even
the center of gravity at that moment
missed squeezing through by one alternator width
almost a complete frame - with not one bolt tightened (outside of the front cradle
SRountree
Well-known member
Looking like the start of something great! Nice work...
SuperBuickGuy
Well-known member
time to start making this all permanent
first is drill out the tabs for 1/2" bolts
I still haven't come up with a solution I like for the lower mount - Sunday's plan is the spindles and those mounts....edited
never had something shrink after painting, but this did....edited
basically had to cut this apart to get it to work....
if you look closely, you'll see the tank wasn't welded square.... thanks RCI.... it certainly wasn't damaged in shipping, but welded this way.edited Guess I need to call Summit.
first is drill out the tabs for 1/2" bolts
I still haven't come up with a solution I like for the lower mount - Sunday's plan is the spindles and those mounts....edited
never had something shrink after painting, but this did....edited
basically had to cut this apart to get it to work....
if you look closely, you'll see the tank wasn't welded square.... thanks RCI.... it certainly wasn't damaged in shipping, but welded this way.edited Guess I need to call Summit.
SuperBuickGuy
Well-known member
Yay Summit racing.They're replacing the tank and threw a FiTech EFI on the order too.... for a slight cost increase, of course.edited I've decided I want to drive this, so the Holley stuff goes back into 'future project' bay.edited That said, the fuel pump is going onto the FJ40 - it's carb pressures, but it's max pressure is 12 psi and I need 9-11 for the TBI.... and this has better volume...edited
SuperBuickGuy
Well-known member
trial fit
and finally time to open the rubbers
and lower
it's interesting to me that this car, if it was 1978 and newer, could be a 2+2 coupe....
sitting for now.editededited
the point of this is to build the cage and the floor in the rear.edited ..... once that's done, pull it off, plumb the brakes and fuel system, then put it back on for real.... also need to build some inner fenders... fun fun
and finally time to open the rubbers
and lower
it's interesting to me that this car, if it was 1978 and newer, could be a 2+2 coupe....
sitting for now.editededited
the point of this is to build the cage and the floor in the rear.edited ..... once that's done, pull it off, plumb the brakes and fuel system, then put it back on for real.... also need to build some inner fenders... fun fun
SuperBuickGuy
Well-known member
EFI upgrade
and replacement tank.... it's squarer. I keep telling myself that it's $100 in material and $40 in fittings and parts.... these tanks are $200.... and their welds are better - why they haven't learned to clamp it in place first is a question for the ages.
and finally starting to learn on my new welder - aluminum learn
not pretty to begin
however, practice
I need to add the material back that I machined off - thus the welding.... next up drill holes in my non-practice pieces, then make those permanent....edited
and replacement tank.... it's squarer. I keep telling myself that it's $100 in material and $40 in fittings and parts.... these tanks are $200.... and their welds are better - why they haven't learned to clamp it in place first is a question for the ages.
and finally starting to learn on my new welder - aluminum learn
not pretty to begin
however, practice
I need to add the material back that I machined off - thus the welding.... next up drill holes in my non-practice pieces, then make those permanent....edited
SuperBuickGuy
Well-known member
more parts arrived today
when they said 7" they mean 7" .... thankfully it's just enough
the order of events - I work with the time available - I really need to spend some quality time with the welder and milling machine, but that wouldn't be tonight...
when they said 7" they mean 7" .... thankfully it's just enough
the order of events - I work with the time available - I really need to spend some quality time with the welder and milling machine, but that wouldn't be tonight...
SuperBuickGuy
Well-known member
Okay, enough with Uber hookers.... onto more chipping away at this project
heh, I punned
basically the tabs are in the way so I need to move them towards the centerline... yes, people do make stuff that put 13" rotors on these.... but where's the fun in that?edited
clamping is so much fun
lest you think I gave up on eyeballing... no, I will not
success.... bolt hoes in place and bolts go in.... which there was so question whether or not this would work since I learned today that my key for the chuck is not the key for the chuck that fits my mill
next step.edited I've taken a tremendous amount of metal off the back, so welding in new backing blocks is more then a good idea
heh, I punned
basically the tabs are in the way so I need to move them towards the centerline... yes, people do make stuff that put 13" rotors on these.... but where's the fun in that?edited
clamping is so much fun
lest you think I gave up on eyeballing... no, I will not
success.... bolt hoes in place and bolts go in.... which there was so question whether or not this would work since I learned today that my key for the chuck is not the key for the chuck that fits my mill
next step.edited I've taken a tremendous amount of metal off the back, so welding in new backing blocks is more then a good idea
SuperBuickGuy
Well-known member
first, make holes (aka void warranties)
weld a bit of aluminum
dang, the appearance I know what I'm doing....
fit an Astro top
(I love these things)
weld a bit of aluminum
dang, the appearance I know what I'm doing....
fit an Astro top
(I love these things)
SRountree
Well-known member
Sweet looking!
SuperBuickGuy
Well-known member
I appreciate the kind words
Brakes
Today I received the bolts for the front calipers.... time to finish this up
first a bunch of milling on what I welded yesterday
I resisted the urge to sharpen the carbide (I should have but it worked)
then drilled the holes
wow, it works, errr... well that's no surprise that it worked just like I planned
Installed new upper ball joints
for the life of me, I can't figure out why this is an issue now - but one bolt should be shorter to attach the hubs.... thankfully, Mr. Cutoff wheel came to the rescue
and look, the rear
and the front - to be honest, I don't know of a 14" rotor for this application (the C5 uses a 13")...edited
Getting close to final assembly
and the rear
Brakes
Today I received the bolts for the front calipers.... time to finish this up
first a bunch of milling on what I welded yesterday
I resisted the urge to sharpen the carbide (I should have but it worked)
then drilled the holes
wow, it works, errr... well that's no surprise that it worked just like I planned
Installed new upper ball joints
for the life of me, I can't figure out why this is an issue now - but one bolt should be shorter to attach the hubs.... thankfully, Mr. Cutoff wheel came to the rescue
and look, the rear
and the front - to be honest, I don't know of a 14" rotor for this application (the C5 uses a 13")...edited
Getting close to final assembly
and the rear
phantomjock
Well-known member
Ahh Ha! Wondered why the mod to the uprights. Obviously matching the caliper to the disc - but didn't "get" why. Surprised that floating hats could be matched to a 14" disc. Add some extra complications ordering, etc.
Its's all a compromise isn't it?
Very nice work.
Cheers - Jim
SuperBuickGuy
Well-known member
master cylinder size.
Stock C3, no assist is 7/8"
Stock C3, with assist is 1 1/8"
2010 Camaro SS is 1 1/8 however it's a much shorter master cylinder.
Called Wilwood and they recommended 1 1/8 with the caveat that I need to measure the piston size to properly calculate the swept area.
I'm using the smallest of hydroboost (no power steering, yet) to aid in braking....
Stock C3, no assist is 7/8"
Stock C3, with assist is 1 1/8"
2010 Camaro SS is 1 1/8 however it's a much shorter master cylinder.
Called Wilwood and they recommended 1 1/8 with the caveat that I need to measure the piston size to properly calculate the swept area.
I'm using the smallest of hydroboost (no power steering, yet) to aid in braking....
SuperBuickGuy
Well-known member
didn't have a lot of time, but enough to put the wheels on
and drill holes for the pump
and drill holes for the pump
