GoVetteGo
Well-known member
Looking very good Jeremy! That grill will give a kind os sleek, aerodynamic look to the front end of the car!
Can't wait to see it in paint!!!!!
Can't wait to see it in paint!!!!!
Rookie's First Restoration Attempt...
- Thread starter stinger12
- Start date
stinger12
Well-known member
- Joined
- Mar 28, 2008
- Messages
- 832
Mocked up my running lights and built mounts for them. I bought lights which integrated signal lights and running lights all in one unit. It flashes amber when you turn on the indicators, and is bright white while running. They are mounted behind the grille and, because they are LEDs, they are very bright.
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denpo
Carburated Nihilist
I'd be curious to know the model of let light you're using. I've been a lot into led lately...
By the way, isn't lifting a Vette by the front cross member a big no no? I can't remember if yours have been reinforced.
By the way, isn't lifting a Vette by the front cross member a big no no? I can't remember if yours have been reinforced.
stinger12
Well-known member
- Joined
- Mar 28, 2008
- Messages
- 832
Its only a bad idea if you have all the weight in it, and you are using a straight jack on it. I have a piece of wood on top of my jack which distributes the load...no damage over 4 years. I don't recommend it if you have a fully assembled car with the engine and interior in.
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mrvette
Phantom of the Opera
The crossmember on my car came pre bent/modified by former owner.....I use a piece of wood on my jack but not concerned about it being bent since '95 now....
:harhar:
MYBAD79
Moderator
The LED running lights with turn signal function are a great idea..... might have to copy that.... 
stinger12
Well-known member
- Joined
- Mar 28, 2008
- Messages
- 832
I've been promising you guys a write up on the L88 headlights from Vintage Exotics.
I contacted James Cantrell about a year ago regarding my project, and he has been a great help installing these headlights. James, thanks for all of the help - I have a lot of respect for the work you have put into your product, and without a doubt I will be using you in the future.
Jim purchased the rights to the headlight lense molds a while back. He has invested over $10 000 putting these into production, along with the aluminum buckets. They are exceptional.
The first thing I have to mention is how well these came boxed up. Packed with care and by a professional to say the least. Yeah, I know...who cares...get on with the good stuff...I care. It shows effort by the seller, and care for the product they are selling me. These could not have been packaged more professionally, and I applaud them for that.
What you receive in the kit:
-2 headlight buckets
-2 headlight lenses
-2 headlight retainer moldings
-dzus fasteners
-aircraft grade aluminum rivets
-machined backing plates for use with original headlights
And obviously the lenses which you will see in upcoming pictures. In the pictures above, you'll notice the individual backing plates which are an improvement over previous setups. It looks cleaner, and it is a lot easier to install original style bulbs using these improvements. Everything is CNC punched, and the buckets are hand tig welded.
The setup above accomodates the original bulbs from your stock headlight buckets. If you are looking for an improvement in lighting however, there is a second option. I talked to Jim about improvements in lighting, and he suggested I purchase Hella 90mm halogen projectors if I wanted more of an intense beam. They are adjusted from the backside using a socket on the adjusters. He currently uses them on one of his Porsche's, and swears by them for the price and the quality of light. The best deal on the net is through Amazon. Make sure you order both the high and low beams.
The holes on the backing plates will need to be opened up and three holes drilled to accomodate the adjusters which come with the projectors. Since I am all about things being symettrical, I did this once the buckets were physically mounted in the openings. I stood back and eyeballed where each bulb should be mounted, then marked the circles on the backing plates.
For those of you with aftermarket front ends, or surrounds which have been replaced. These buckets were modelled after original front ends. As you can see, my entire car has been modified, including me originally having to remove the header bar out of the car, cutting it in half, welding it back up, and pushing the surround down to match the point of the hood during fitment. This changed the contour of the glass on everthing in front of the header bar so I needed to carefully trim away material from the buckets edge to make them fit snug. Almost all of you shouldn't have this problem, but if you do, look towards it being a case in which your front end has had major work done to it, because chances are that is why it doesn't fit without trimming.
Another thing to consider is the hole openings on aftermarket front ends. I can tell you right now that the holes on my front end were way too wide for the bucket, which was a case of the original manufacturer of my front end cutting the holes too large. However, the first thing to do when installing these buckets is to get it in place, secured in its final position. Make sure everything is symetrical when you stand back and look at it. Its takes a little more time, but the result in the end is worth it in my opinion.
Once you get the buckets in their final positions, next is to square up your headlight openings. If your oppenings are too wide for the bucket, you will need to do some glass work and close up the openings so they cover up the edges of the buckets. Once that is complete, make sure to square up the sides of the openings using a block. Radius each corner so they are symmetrical to each other...it takes time, but its worth it in the end.
The lenses have a lot of material on them which allows you to place them exactly where you want them. Install them and trim them to your taste...I purposely squared the lenses to the headlight openings, as I thought it looked better. The front of the lense is held down with the supplied aluminum plates (which are cnc punched). They are held down with rivets. The rear corners of the lenses are held down with dzus fasteners, which I have yet to install.
I'm extremely impressed with the fit and quality of these...they are incredible.
I contacted James Cantrell about a year ago regarding my project, and he has been a great help installing these headlights. James, thanks for all of the help - I have a lot of respect for the work you have put into your product, and without a doubt I will be using you in the future.
Jim purchased the rights to the headlight lense molds a while back. He has invested over $10 000 putting these into production, along with the aluminum buckets. They are exceptional.
The first thing I have to mention is how well these came boxed up. Packed with care and by a professional to say the least. Yeah, I know...who cares...get on with the good stuff...I care. It shows effort by the seller, and care for the product they are selling me. These could not have been packaged more professionally, and I applaud them for that.
What you receive in the kit:
-2 headlight buckets
-2 headlight lenses
-2 headlight retainer moldings
-dzus fasteners
-aircraft grade aluminum rivets
-machined backing plates for use with original headlights
And obviously the lenses which you will see in upcoming pictures. In the pictures above, you'll notice the individual backing plates which are an improvement over previous setups. It looks cleaner, and it is a lot easier to install original style bulbs using these improvements. Everything is CNC punched, and the buckets are hand tig welded.
The setup above accomodates the original bulbs from your stock headlight buckets. If you are looking for an improvement in lighting however, there is a second option. I talked to Jim about improvements in lighting, and he suggested I purchase Hella 90mm halogen projectors if I wanted more of an intense beam. They are adjusted from the backside using a socket on the adjusters. He currently uses them on one of his Porsche's, and swears by them for the price and the quality of light. The best deal on the net is through Amazon. Make sure you order both the high and low beams.
The holes on the backing plates will need to be opened up and three holes drilled to accomodate the adjusters which come with the projectors. Since I am all about things being symettrical, I did this once the buckets were physically mounted in the openings. I stood back and eyeballed where each bulb should be mounted, then marked the circles on the backing plates.
For those of you with aftermarket front ends, or surrounds which have been replaced. These buckets were modelled after original front ends. As you can see, my entire car has been modified, including me originally having to remove the header bar out of the car, cutting it in half, welding it back up, and pushing the surround down to match the point of the hood during fitment. This changed the contour of the glass on everthing in front of the header bar so I needed to carefully trim away material from the buckets edge to make them fit snug. Almost all of you shouldn't have this problem, but if you do, look towards it being a case in which your front end has had major work done to it, because chances are that is why it doesn't fit without trimming.
Another thing to consider is the hole openings on aftermarket front ends. I can tell you right now that the holes on my front end were way too wide for the bucket, which was a case of the original manufacturer of my front end cutting the holes too large. However, the first thing to do when installing these buckets is to get it in place, secured in its final position. Make sure everything is symetrical when you stand back and look at it. Its takes a little more time, but the result in the end is worth it in my opinion.
Once you get the buckets in their final positions, next is to square up your headlight openings. If your oppenings are too wide for the bucket, you will need to do some glass work and close up the openings so they cover up the edges of the buckets. Once that is complete, make sure to square up the sides of the openings using a block. Radius each corner so they are symmetrical to each other...it takes time, but its worth it in the end.
The lenses have a lot of material on them which allows you to place them exactly where you want them. Install them and trim them to your taste...I purposely squared the lenses to the headlight openings, as I thought it looked better. The front of the lense is held down with the supplied aluminum plates (which are cnc punched). They are held down with rivets. The rear corners of the lenses are held down with dzus fasteners, which I have yet to install.
I'm extremely impressed with the fit and quality of these...they are incredible.
Twin_Turbo
Der Maulwurf
- Joined
- Mar 5, 2008
- Messages
- 7,575
truly unique lights...one of a kind
Kid Vette
Master-Baiter
TT, you're mellowing out in your old age.
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I747 using Tapatalk 2
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I747 using Tapatalk 2
SmokinBBC
Well-known member
They don't look right.
advancedtooling
Well-known member
- Joined
- Sep 9, 2012
- Messages
- 51
Thanks, this has been a very interesting and informative read.
stinger12
Well-known member
- Joined
- Mar 28, 2008
- Messages
- 832
Now that the grille was finished, the grille retaining brackets needed to be made more permanent for future removal and installation. Most of you know that when you use self tapping screws, the more you remove and install them, the looser they become...and over time they will no longer bite. I planned for this ahead of time. I made the bottom part of the bumper 3/8'' thick to allow for me to inset machine nuts for really tiny machine screws into the fiberglass. I glued each nut into a ground out hole, then put a screw in each one. I then laid one layer of glass on top of each nut while the screw was still threaded into the nut...once the resin dried, I removed the screw and the result was permanent machined threads for my retainers. All you need is enough screw to bite the threads...you don't want to have a 1/2'' long screw going into the fiberglass.
00fxd
Well-known member
4 spd? Is that Ronaks old car?
stinger12
Well-known member
- Joined
- Mar 28, 2008
- Messages
- 832
Ronak? Not sure who that is. What I do know is Byron has been collecting Pontiac parts for the past 12 years now, and it is finally time to start building his project. Byron is known across Canada for being the "Pontiac guy". I am more excited for his project than I am for mine. Its going to be a fun build.
mrvette
Phantom of the Opera
In the DC region, from years ago, there is a old friend of mine, Ron Johnson, of Potomac Pontiac he is on the net I bought many a old Poncho part from him, and so if you all need parts, you have another source now....
I must admit I never heard of a 409 in a Poncho, must be a Canadian thing, the old Chevy engine from the 60's????
