Six Link Rear Suspension

I'm interested to know how many of you guys finished this conversion and what you think of the outcome. Looking to do something to my rear suspension, just not sure how far I want to go.

Also, does this setup use standard rear leaf spring and sway bar, and does it give any additional clearance for wider rims?

PS. excellent thread.

Thanks,Doug
 
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In my car I have coilovers, but the system was designed to work even with leaf spring.

Yes, the system allows wider rims..... now I have 10.5" wide rims (from a C6) at the rear..... everithing is very close, but it works!
By the way the wheel is exactely flush with the rear stock fender of my 79.....
 
Yes, the drawings in the previous page is the 6/8mm release.

Now I have in my car the second release which is done all in 3mm Stainless with multi layers in the more stressed areas.

After several track days, several drifting sessions, several xcross..... and after zillions of holes and bumps in the road, nothing is broken! :yahoo:
 
Thanks guys. This is certainly a great looking setup, may be a bit of overkill for the street. Will have to give it some thought.

Doug
 
Anyone think about doing the bearing carrier portion in aluminum? Im going to assume the diff bracket has to be steel since the control rods are mounted in single shear unless someone has any ideas to make an aluminum diff bracket work
 
I had two sets cut out when I got mine. I'm still waiting for the bearing holder, but I'll have one extra when they're done. If anyone wants to buy, I think the cost was about $300 each. I had them cut out of 3/8" steel - which means it's thicker than 8 mm so the notches need to be opened just a bit where they join.

oh, and if there's enough interest, I can get more cut out by just placing a phone call. They do not have the capability to do thick enough stainless (think their limit was 1/4")

PM me if interested.
 
Its allot of work .....
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Sting,
I'm very very happy to see the progress in the job!

A small suggestion coming from my experience.... make an other hole above the original one in the lower portion of the brackets which is going in the frame pocket.
Then use to higher one of the two in the upper area of the same bracket for the other link.

The front pivot point of the lower longitudinal link will rise, rising the end of the swing arm.

After you istalled the system, try to play a bit with the longitudinal links lenght.... this can help changing the reaction force when braking.

I did it and now I have less squat and zero wheel hop when braking!

Hope to see your car sitting in the wheels very soon.....
 
original trailing arm bolt to the hole on the "nose" of those brackets in the background and a set of tabs welded to the frame under the TA poacket
 
It works something like this
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[IM

Stroker Im waiting for some water jet cut brackets (4) for the removable crossmember Then we can progress.......to all 4 wheels :banghead:



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Twin_Turbo said:
original trailing arm bolt to the hole on the "nose" of those brackets in the background and a set of tabs welded to the frame under the TA poacket
Click to expand...

would using something like this be easier for putting the c4 rear in my 82? Or just simpler using the c4 stuff?
 
Stroker-427 6-link modified for 80-82 Batwing & adj. spring

I have been working on a modified 6-link for my 68'. I have taken Stroker-427's design and retrofitted it to a 80-82 batwing (less weight). I will donate my autocad drawings to this forum. I still have some questions for Stroker-427 as for setting it up. I will post these questions later. I have also made extra parts (stainless and aluminum) in case some body would be interested in purchasing them, to save themselves the time and effort. I have a set of wheel housings complete from Stroker-427's design that are complete. The other parts are from the modified design. I thank all of those that have contributed to this thread as the information is priceless. Thanks.....Ken

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Nice job! Are the "extra parts" you have from the Stroker design (pre 80). Are the wheel bearing housings welded together?
 
BBShark - To answer your question, Yes ,the two welded housings are Stroker-427's pre 80's design. I made them initially but realized that I had to change the dimension of the toe rod mounting points (move farther out). They are stainless. Some of the welds could be cleaned up though. The holes for the heim joints are .562 dia., setup for Currie Enterprises Johnny joints. (CE-9112N-13).
 
Wow

:thumbs:
Just finished reading through all 22 pages of this thread. All of your work is amazing....absolutely floored by the talent.

Now have to convince myself that this is doable.
 
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