Six Link Rear Suspension

Stroker427,
I posted the Mustang link mainly for his numbers. I was always asking around. Just how much toe is right? Or close to right for me. In my case I am dealing with a 90" wheelbase, so my guess, I would need a little less. He shows .113 degree or 6.78 minutes @ 1 inch travel and .26 degree or 15.6 minutes @ 2" travel. I averaged left and right. I know you have three inch travel dampers. I have never read anywhere saying you want toe-out under jounce.
 
A couple of thoughts --Toe in roll steer was added to the C-4 Corvette as a safety measure (causes push - understeer) during hard cornering which scuffs off speed and keeps the rear end from coming around. (The C-3 had just the opposite). The Mustang probably got the same "safety" solution from Ford. The Mustang pushes like a dump truck ( I'll probably hear from the Ford guys about that one -- LOL), so I believe that community is adding toe out during roll to "loosen" the car and overcome some of the push. It is simply a crutch, since the real issue is understeer caused by a lot of factors -- too much weight on the nose, too high CG, front suspension geometry, spring rates and roll centers, to suggest a few. If you have enough horsepower, you can always overcome a tight-push condition with lots of throttle, but once you induce wheel spin you kill forward bite -- not the fastest way around a track. As a side note, some circle track guys add a little toe out roll steer to keep the car from starting a push mid-corner, which allows them to pick up the throttle earlier on corner exit.
 
mfain,

KB's site states these rods are for lowering or racing. Guys are lowering the chassis with an IRS? Imagine what that does to the geometry? They're not moving the housing at all I'm sure. They increased geometry change by about the power of 1.5 per inch of travel. Gee then some are running factory springs and dampers? Body roll! Duh! Take your C4 IRS and lower your diff below your hub center-line and see what happens.

How oval track racers toe and camber a solid axle housing.

http://books.google.com/books?id=rY...&q=heating and bending a rear housing&f=false
 
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May they have a severe understeer by design...... but I will never like roll toe out in my car!
The risk is when you are late on the apex...... touch the brakes and you will never be able to close the corner!
It looks to me the very wrong way to correct understeer.... and even dangerous!

My opinion, of course!
 
Why can anyone tell me that Strokers bearing carrier is so stout, but that Guldstrand setup is aluminum? Are there any mods to be done in regard with the Guldstrand? Is the Guldstrand flimsy?
 
Ralphy said:
Why can anyone tell me that Strokers bearing carrier is so stout, but that Guldstrand setup is aluminum? Are there any mods to be done in regard with the Guldstrand? Is the Guldstrand flimsy?
Click to expand...

Ralphy:

Guldstrand's set up still uses the half shaft's as a supporting link member. The lateral (Extension and compression) loads are on the stub axles and c clips holding it as a base. Not allot of stress in bearing carrier. Larconi and Riley design utilizes 2 upper link and 2 rear toe link's to hold camber and toe. Much more stress on the bearing carrier's, better design but allot more unsprung weight . GRA3 :cool:
 
Stingxray, I follow you but then again I don't. How does the Guldstrand reduce load under power? Those two lower links add very little strength in this regard. And actually having the rear toe link is a more favorable position in this regard. As I have seen before written, a toe link behind the halfshaft is the best place to control toe and I agree. Only the upper link takes the load the halfshaft once had to support?
 
Which hole to mount to.....?

Which TOP hole on the ear plates do the upper links mount to. Is the 2nd hole needed? I will eliminate them from the plates if they are not. I have the plates drawn up such that a 80-82 design batwing can be used with this system. I will post pics and drawings later after they are fabbed up and mounted to the differential. I will have a 2nd set made (keeps cost down) in case someone wants a set. They will be made out of stainless steel.
 
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denpo said:
1Michel said:
Anybody had a quote on lazer cutting those parts?

How much would it cost?
Click to expand...
Don't forget it will be for two set :smash:
Click to expand...

Yeah I know my friend... LOL

BUT right now, I think I'll wait a bit.
675 bucks material included.
Wasnt sure about the thickness soooo it might be cheaper but still.

I havnt shopped anywhere else so well see later.
 
1Michel said:
Yeah I know my friend... LOL

BUT right now, I think I'll wait a bit.
675 bucks material included.
Wasnt sure about the thickness soooo it might be cheaper but still.

I havnt shopped anywhere else so well see later.
Click to expand...

Is that 675 for two sets? Is that 6mm steel or stainless?
 
BBShark said:
1Michel said:
Yeah I know my friend... LOL

BUT right now, I think I'll wait a bit.
675 bucks material included.
Wasnt sure about the thickness soooo it might be cheaper but still.

I havnt shopped anywhere else so well see later.
Click to expand...

Is that 675 for two sets? Is that 6mm steel or stainless?
Click to expand...

That was for one set, SST 304 2B and theres a bit of confusion about the thickness, ¼’’ et 5/16
I just sent him the download and he quoted.

Maybe if I get the SS and use 3 mm like Stroker did I might get away with it fer less,

I'll check later this week
 
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1Michel said:
That was for one set, SST 304 2B and theres a bit of confusion about the thickness, ¼’’ et 5/16
I just sent him the download and he quoted.

Maybe if I get the SS and use 3 mm like Stroker did I might get away with it fer less,

I'll check later this week
Click to expand...

I think the drawing is set up for 6mm and 8mm. Below is the file I got from Yves that (I think) has all the parts in one file. The two boxes on the bottom are 8mm and the upper left parts are 6mm (guessing again). I don't know if there are any 3mm parts. Maybe Stroker will see this and clear up these issues.

The waterjet/laser cutters usually put a setup fee in the job so the second set of parts are usually cheaper. Also the plates are stacked so you might be able to get the second set for material cost plus a litle extra for the slower cut. Stainless is probably 30-40% higher than steel plate also

44f6df5f5e2181.jpg
 
Late reply

1Michel said:
Anybody had a quote on lazer cutting those parts?

How much would it cost?
Click to expand...

Good-day Michel and All : (got your PM Michel)

Where does the time go ?
I had the Stainless cut by my cousin in 2009. He had a water jet business at the time, charged me $275 for 2 sets. He cut it in one pass with the material stacked and a technique called "Nesting" which reduces waste material. Sorry to say he sold the business due to lack of business.

I'm knee deep on projects right now and the reason I haven't been on the forum for a while. As for the Pier Paolo build ...I Finally got the Urethane bushings machined for the cross member. I have to weld in the sombrero supports brackets ...then things will start moving again . GRA3
P1000573.jpg
P1000574.jpg
P1000575.jpg
P1000576.jpg
 
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Stingxray said:
I Finally got the Urethane bushings machined for the cross member. I have to weld in the sombrero supports brackets ...then things will start moving again .
P1000576.jpg
Click to expand...

Interesting, are these available for sale? I have a wheel hop issue that I would like to solve, maybe something like those bushings instead of the stock rubber could help.
 
Interesting, are these available for sale? I have a wheel hop issue that I would like to solve, maybe something like those bushings instead of the stock rubber could help.[/QUOTE]

Sorry .....No one makes these.:confused2::twitch:
I had to do all the work Ie: take measurements , buying the materiel $ 85
(http://stores.ebay.com/Best-Source-For-Urethane-Products) Bribe the machinist to do the lathe work ( ie : Donuts ). That's why this car is now on the 15 year plan. :huh::cussing:
 
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