Six Link Rear Suspension

Question ?...............

Congrats......! Pier on the Magazine article . It's a nice write up . I have a quick question for you. Do you remember the approx. length of your stand- off tubes on the differential bracket's? The tube length looks to be 2" forward tubes and 4 inches to the rear. Judging by your photos. Thanks ;)

suspension1.jpg
 
The shorter one is 40mm and the longer is 70mm..... sorry, we use metric units! ;-)

That's OK, the cognescenti can use both units interchangebly and to advantage....:clap:

Yes we do ........70 millimeters = 2.75590551 inches and 40 millimeters = 1.57480315 inches.... I was pretty close :flash::bump::thankyou::sos::stirpot::zzz:
 
Problem with the differential plate drawings

I have all of the parts for the six link housings made. I cannot download the drawing page for the differential plates and standoffs. I am using Autocad 2000. Could someone please either update the drawing set or at least post the drawings such that I can make the plates and standoffs. Thanks.....Ken
 
The drawings all open for me in Autocad 2000 and R12. These are the oldest versions of Autocad I have, I don't think the files need to be updated, that will only make things worse for people using older Autocad. Let me know which file you are having trouble with.
 

Attachments

Files needed

The drawing files that I need are those of the differential mounting plates with the standoffs that mount to the bolt pattern of the differential houding. I do not see them in the 3 drawings listed above. I have those 3 drawings and they open up fine. Ken

The parts that I need the prints for are in the picture in Post #49......
 
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That's different, I thought you couldn't download the drawing (but it appears to not exist). The plates and spacers in this drawing?

249b8443428361.jpg
 
Hi guys, this may sound a bit dumb but how does the adapter to convert the trailing arm to twin links bolt or weld to the TA pocket area?

Cheers,
Matt.
 
Welcome Bad Bird, that's a very good question. I believe it's bolted and welded in. TT can probably offer some help. You probably use the original mounting hole to locate the bracket and then position and weld.
 
Bad Bird -
If I get your question right - it sounds like you're asking about a 4 link to replace the trailing arms...
Here is a link to a setup that autofab has for that:
http://www.racingjunk.com/Suspensio...version-.html?imageIndex=1&showSuperSize=true

You'll note the curved section - that would be welded to the chassis. Most of the DIY 6 links keep the trailing arm as is, and build brackets to control camber/toe.

Also, it seems like most 4 links are used with a live axle and not an IRS - and for Drag - not track/autocross.

Hope that helps.
Cheers - Jim
 
Differential ear plate drawings

Did anyone find the two ear plate drawings for the six link along with the spacers. I inquired a while back and they are not in the drawing section. I have all of the parts fabbed up but these. Thanks.....Ken
 
I'm not sure with this guys idea, he wants to toe out his IRS in regard to roll steer. However he measure his roll steer, .050 according to him equals .180 degree of steer. This kit he shows from what I gather is actually for guys who lower their rides and it corrects the geometry.

http://mdmustangs.com/David_Simmons_Cobra/irsbump.html

I now understand rear steer is referred to as roll steer. Searching this term I have found conflicting info. In a book titled, How To Make Your Car Handle. It suggests racers not use roll steer.

http://books.google.com/books?id=cr...ndependent rear suspension roll steer&f=false
 
For my opinion is a very bad idea to look for bump-oversteer in the rearend!!!!

You will never be able to apply some throttle coming out from a corner...... roll-steer is the same thing than bump-steer.

Applying throttle will cause some squat (unlees you are driving a dragster...... but n this case why to talk about corners???) at the rear, causing toe-out....... no way to drive fast!

You may need the opposite...... for my experience.

In some autocross I setup my rearend with a lot of toe-out but in rebound (braking..), in order to be very quick at the beginning of the corner...... and then a good quantity of toe-in in bump (accelerating..) to avoid power oversteer.

It looks to me that he is doing the opposite..... mha!

IMHO......... of course!
 
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