temp probe placement

clutchdust

Millionaire Playboy
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i need to install a temp probe on my datsun to turn the fan on and off. problem is, there's no fittings in the head or the t-stat housing large enough for the probe.
what i do need is an aluminum radiator so i'm thinking of having a bung welded into the tank before i install it.
is there a prefered place for the probe? whether it's in the head/stat housing or in the radiator?
 
No, if the fan comes on the stat is already open and as such a probe located on the tank would be fine. Do realize that having the probe near the inlet is the best place for it if mounted on the tank.

Typically the cylinder head is the best place IMO as the temps are highest there, mounting the probe away from that slightly delays the fan action. Then again the fans only influence the radiator core temp so using a slightly colder switch and installing it in the tank is fine.
You do know they sell inline manifold that you can install in the upper hose, it has a threaded hole for a switch.
 
If you talking of a typical capillary probe, say 3" long, I used some RTV and clamped it under the upper hose near the rad, facing into the flow to keep the tube straight....let it set up overnight, worked like a charm....put it underneath for neatness sake....

:bounce:
 
No, he doesn't mean a bulb because obviously that wouldn't require welding a bung to the tank ;)
 
No, if the fan comes on the stat is already open and as such a probe located on the tank would be fine. Do realize that having the probe near the inlet is the best place for it if mounted on the tank.

Typically the cylinder head is the best place IMO as the temps are highest there, mounting the probe away from that slightly delays the fan action. Then again the fans only influence the radiator core temp so using a slightly colder switch and installing it in the tank is fine.
You do know they sell inline manifold that you can install in the upper hose, it has a threaded hole for a switch.
i think i have seen that manifold. since i'll be converting this anyway as i don't think anyone is making a direct replacement for the Zs anymore, it would probably be easier to do that way anyway.
 
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