kwplot34
Heart Attack
None of my vehicles with Vac brakes travel to the floor. In fact the HB brakes on the diesel travel further than the Vac brakes.
What if....
- Thread starter 1Michel
- Start date
mrvette
Phantom of the Opera
Wonder if it's something in that pump valving, as the Motor Home HB pedal is a LOT harder to push than the vette, sure 8000 lbs, not comparing stopping, just that the pedal takes a lot more force....wonder if I maybe have to change some shit,....:crap:
1Michel
Well-known member
What I was trying to do with this thread is to show that non assisted brakes using new material like Willwood brakes and master would be a great option for our cars...
I know the original system of the car could be good enough for street use and is used by a lot.
I am certainly considering it.
But I want to upgrade it and make it safer too at the same time,
While I'm at it...
I know the original system of the car could be good enough for street use and is used by a lot.
I am certainly considering it.
But I want to upgrade it and make it safer too at the same time,
While I'm at it...
kwplot34
Heart Attack
I would like to get rid of the booster and go manual brakes. Cleans up the firewall and it works just fine. Had many a car's with manual brakes,and my old truck has manual brakes.
1Michel
Well-known member
Thats exactly what I'm aiming.
racervette69
Underachiever
Using Willwood GN3 on front, superlites on rear. Brake compound D. Twin Tilton master cylinders with balance bar. Works for me.
JPhil
Huh?
I would love to get rid of the booster too.
But remember, disc brakes take a lot more pressure to operate than drum brakes.
A big reason for cars switching from mechanicals to hydraulics was to keep the brakes balanced so there would be equal pressure on all wheels, almost impossible to maintain with mechanicals.
denpo
Carburated Nihilist
Would you mind explaining that, naively I don't see how boosting the brakeand would make the the pressure balancing better.
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MYBAD79
Moderator
priceless Jeff...... :quote::rofl:
MYBAD79
Moderator
The calipers perform the same, no matter how you assist them, hydraulic, pneumatic, nothing, a flux capacitor..... it is simply pressure inside the caliper times piston area..... simple physics....
non assisted brakes work just as good as anything, you just have to push the pedal harder.....
mrvette
Phantom of the Opera
What everyone conveniently ignores is the fact that our stock sucky boosters have a spring between the input shaft to the pedal, and the output shaft to the m/cyl.....that spring is a problem child that allows way over excessive pedal travel, and it's worse on our cars with that early 4 wheel disc design from what? '65 was first year, and so you all ragging on me for making a simple improvement to the system without spending a grand on some aftermarket crap you can't tell in performance unless you racing....
:banghead::gurney:
JPhil
Huh?
It's not the assist, it's the hydraulic fluid system which is self balancing & adjusting as opposed to mechanical levers & rods which wear causing uneven braking on the different wheels.
68L71
Well-known member
- Joined
- May 13, 2008
- Messages
- 747
As in pre-1940
Here is a Corvette booster. I can't find the spring that would cause lost motion. Maybe the valve return spring? I can't see that causing more than 1/8
mrvette
Phantom of the Opera
Which is way the V8 Ford club does not deduct point for a hydraulic conversion for the old mechanical brakes on early Ford cars.....this via a old friend with a converted '35? Ford rumble seat convertible....resto winner....
mrvette
Phantom of the Opera
Here is a Corvette booster. I can't find the spring that would cause lost motion. Maybe the valve return spring? I can't see that causing more than 1/8
Yes, that's the one I thinking of, now all I know is from the same diagram you show that's in my overhaul manual AND when finally giving up on it, and having a HB unit in hand, I tore it out of there, pulling the vac check valve supposedly told me it held vacuum, engine never lacked for vacuum, and pedal was always very soft and after ~4" of travel would stop the car, but after stopping the car, I could still force it to the floor, not a very confident feeling, but rather common for most GM cars with sucky boosters....
SO, not entirely trusting the Validity of the conversion, I installed the HB unit without ever breaking a BRAKE line, bolt on set booster rod length, and so slammed myself into the steering wheel on first drive....it was a 1 5/16 diameter truck m/cyl trying to get less pedal travel with the OEM booster....
so changing to a aftermarket aluminum m/cyl of stock dia pistons, solved THAT problem, and put the thing with a perfect pedal feel.....
that will NOT go to the floor no matter if I put one foot on the other with all my weight....gotta LOVE the confident feeling...and I can coast the car out of the garage by pulling outta gear also, so no significant drag on the brakes either, as has always been the case with any of my cars.....
:drink:
racervette69
Underachiever
I just remembered that I have used the HB system to slow my corvette down for a number of years.
When it was on the trailer being towed by my chevy van..
When it was on the trailer being towed by my chevy van..
mrvette
Phantom of the Opera
I just remembered that I have used the HB system to slow my corvette down for a number of years.
When it was on the trailer being towed by my chevy van..
:loveletter::thankyou::gurney:
clutchdust
Millionaire Playboy
Fkn hate mine too. On both of my diesels I had to replace that godawful POS because it leaked all over every thing. Now on my 1-ton gasser as soon as I get the chance, I'm putting a vacuum booster on it (I just wish I could see GENE's head explode).
denpo
Carburated Nihilist
What about an EVO valve?
Make it work past 25mph and you got best of both world. no?
Well, weight saving put aside, of course.
Make it work past 25mph and you got best of both world. no?
Well, weight saving put aside, of course.
