1969 427 restoration from Sweden

After getting the outside of the body completely sealed I built a very non professional paint box:D
I have done this before and it actually works rather good. A few 1"x2" planks screwed between the roof and shop floor. Then everything is dressed with paper from the inside. I live near a large paper plant producing very smooth, high quality paper for cigarette packages and food boxes giving me access to the product.
The end result is a dust free and protected enviroment for the paint job.
I normally cut a few openings around the box and plug them with a filter material where fresh air can flow in. At the opposite end I connect my weld fume fan, it has a very high capacity.

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Top paint sprayed. 2k semi gloss. The photo was taken when the paint was still wet so it is not as shiny as it looks... However I think it still is a little bit too shiny but I just cant make my self start all over again sanding down the complete underside of the body.
18774f253af8b1d6e.jpg
 
What's up with the first few photos? When I click on them I receive the following message:

JE Caudle, you do not have permission to access this page. This could be due to one of several reasons:
  1. Your user account may not have sufficient privileges to access this page. Are you trying to edit someone else's post, access administrative features or some other privileged system?
  2. If you are trying to post, the administrator may have disabled your account, or it may be awaiting activation.
 
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Hi,

I actually have no clue to your problem. I can see that the pictures are very small but when I click on them they are enlarged on a new page.

I am back working on my car after a long stop due to having a lot to do at my job...

The rear end is now complete and the chassie is back on the wheels.
I´m waiting for my newly machined engine block to get back and then I will start the assembly of my engine.

I willl update with pictures soon.

Regards, Daniel
 
What's up with the first few photos? When I click on them I receive the following message:

JE Caudle, you do not have permission to access this page. This could be due to one of several reasons:
  1. Your user account may not have sufficient privileges to access this page. Are you trying to edit someone else's post, access administrative features or some other privileged system?
  2. If you are trying to post, the administrator may have disabled your account, or it may be awaiting activation.

The photos open in a new window, I'm guessing that it's a browser issue...
 
I get the same message, on the 2nd and 3rd post..not the 1st. I'll have to see what's up. Can you open them Karsten? I'm wondering if the actual photo is gone somehow...
 
Just checked, the ones we can't access are set to private. If you change them to public we can see them again.

This is only a prob is you use the thumbnail link or the quick gallery option.If you post the auto resized full size (with the yellow toolbar) it won't matter because you shared the link to the private pic
 
I hope the photos in the first posts can be viewed now!
I set them to public.

So, I finally recieved my completely restored differential. It is restored by a very skilled man here in Sweden that has been building rear ends for dragracing and street use for decades...
He buys a lot of his stuff from Tom´s and well known US manufacturers.
It has a new Eaton posi unit, polished and with all the good stuff inside it. It will be more than good enough´for 500+ hp.

Assembly of the new 1350 Spicers. Made a plate to avoid warping of the parts during assembly. Had to grind a small radius in the ears to get the 1350´s to fit. I know Gary Ramadei also does this on his builds.

18774f99a8cb9f5a4.jpg
 
Right side finished. It all went smooth.

18774f99a8cc5c727.jpg

The only problem was the new strut rod bracket that is bolted to the diff.
The bracket was included in the Street and Slalom kit I bought from a well know company. I suppose it is the same bracket included in kits supplied by most of the companies. Anyway, as I was bolting it to the diff I discovered that the bolt holes in the bracket were so large that the bracket could be moved several mm from left to right:shocking:
Took out my old original bracket and test assembled it and it was completely tight.
So, another useless piece of crap that must be modified...
Machined small inserts for the too large holes and pressed them in to the holes in the bracket. This gave a completely tight fit.
 
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The only problem was the new strut rod bracket that is bolted to the diff.
The bracket was included in the Street and Slalom kit I bought from a well know company. I suppose it is the same bracket included in kits supplied by most of the companies. Anyway, as I was bolting it to the diff I discovered that the bolt holes in the bracket were so large that the bracket could be moved several mm from left to right:shocking:
Took out my old original bracket and test assembled it and it was completely tight.
So, another useless piece of crap that must be modified...
Machined small inserts for the too large holes and pressed them in to the holes in the bracket. This gave a completely tight fit.

I've heard this before about the Smart Strut bracket.
 

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