SuperBuickGuy
Well-known member
stripping is coming along nicely
and I'm one fitting from completing the fuel system
and I'm one fitting from completing the fuel system
Plastic Fantastic 2
- Thread starter SuperBuickGuy
- Start date
SuperBuickGuy
Well-known member
she's naked
and someone went and put a stick inside her
even found a belt for her
and someone went and put a stick inside her
even found a belt for her
SuperBuickGuy
Well-known member
first step tonight, finish welding the radiator support and paint... though the first step of painting was warm the metal up from 20 degrees (the shop temp)
time to start making this permanent
wait, did I put this in correctly?edited
yep
time to start making this permanent
wait, did I put this in correctly?edited
yep
SuperBuickGuy
Well-known member
also as you can see from the tail panel, I'm starting to figure out how all this goes together and came to the conclusion I really need to take the other rear quarter off... I was planning on doing a video, so I may do part of the video .... we'll see, Clecos arrived today so I can really start getting on getting them fitted.
I could have started with a 72 rear shell, and that may have been the better idea as I wouldn't need the rear panel nor would I have to figure out where the panel goes.... ah well, if it were easy.... :noworry:
I could have started with a 72 rear shell, and that may have been the better idea as I wouldn't need the rear panel nor would I have to figure out where the panel goes.... ah well, if it were easy.... :noworry:
SuperBuickGuy
Well-known member
so an update.edited One thing I appreciate about fiberglass is close is absolutely good enough and a good sign you're overthinking the process
first step... use the old fender as template to get it within 1/4" of where it needs to be
this allows me to determine where the front edge is - once that's determined, it really doesn't matter what the rear-most edge does - well it does, but if it's wrong you're going to have to fix it rather then refitedited
mark
we interrupt this flare with a note that the tank is being a pain lining up and unlike the fiberglass work, it has to be better then close
next step is to cleco the panel on
then drill holes in the flare so that it goes where the old fender fit
and voila
front fender got some work, but I have a long, long ways to go
same method to get it close
and the marker light is hitting the inner fender....edited
ah well, it's closer but back to the back
originally I thought I'd leave this side until I got the other side.... that won't work because I need to fit the rear panel at the same time as the quarters
so chisel out the bondo
heat and separate
I have about the front 10" to finish loosening, and the vertical then it's off.... I was losing patience so it became time to stop
what it looks like from the back
first step... use the old fender as template to get it within 1/4" of where it needs to be
this allows me to determine where the front edge is - once that's determined, it really doesn't matter what the rear-most edge does - well it does, but if it's wrong you're going to have to fix it rather then refitedited
mark
we interrupt this flare with a note that the tank is being a pain lining up and unlike the fiberglass work, it has to be better then close
next step is to cleco the panel on
then drill holes in the flare so that it goes where the old fender fit
and voila
front fender got some work, but I have a long, long ways to go
same method to get it close
and the marker light is hitting the inner fender....edited
ah well, it's closer but back to the back
originally I thought I'd leave this side until I got the other side.... that won't work because I need to fit the rear panel at the same time as the quarters
so chisel out the bondo
heat and separate
I have about the front 10" to finish loosening, and the vertical then it's off.... I was losing patience so it became time to stop
what it looks like from the back
SRountree
Well-known member
progress is looking great! Cant wait to see all the body together.
SuperBuickGuy
Well-known member
me either... there might be a New Year start of the motor.... I know I shouldn't but good grief, it's a solid roller, high compression 427.
SuperBuickGuy
Well-known member
and it's off.... thought not in one piece
outline
and tacked on
but wait, why higher on the other side?
time to get the rear in position because it sets everything else
more cutting and lining up to do....edited
and the tail needs to go in to the line
Anyway, happy New Year everyone
outline
and tacked on
but wait, why higher on the other side?
time to get the rear in position because it sets everything else
more cutting and lining up to do....edited
and the tail needs to go in to the line
Anyway, happy New Year everyone
SuperBuickGuy
Well-known member
on with what I know is your favorite and most certainly not my favorite thing... fitting fiberglass panels
best part about all of this is you need it to be too short - then you can build up from the back to make a seamless and strong panel
ug... need to be to this line
there we go, the gap is about perfect but I have some verification to do before I call it good
what it looks like just before I cut itedited
best part about all of this is you need it to be too short - then you can build up from the back to make a seamless and strong panel
ug... need to be to this line
there we go, the gap is about perfect but I have some verification to do before I call it good
what it looks like just before I cut itedited
bobs77vet
Well-known member
man you are on FIRE......
SuperBuickGuy
Well-known member
the absolute best thing about fiberglass is how easy it is to fill gaps.... matter of fact, perfect fitment is not a goal since you want the glass and resin in the between the parts.... this is the easy part, making them smooth - especially since I was the 2nd person to get these flares - will be bit of a task
time to get this where it needs to be - first get a bit of aluminum to make a ledge
these blades work awesome at cutting fiberglass
nice, straight cut
back to the ledges
cut 1" (and the lip) off the rear panel so they butt together
and time to take it off its suspension so that I can verify dimensions
tomorrow, the front panel comes off and I start making those fit.
time to get this where it needs to be - first get a bit of aluminum to make a ledge
these blades work awesome at cutting fiberglass
nice, straight cut
back to the ledges
cut 1" (and the lip) off the rear panel so they butt together
and time to take it off its suspension so that I can verify dimensions
tomorrow, the front panel comes off and I start making those fit.
SuperBuickGuy
Well-known member
It's getting there
much better alignment
oops, the plastic is just falling off now
I think I'm getting the hang of this - this fender took 1 hour to remove, then get back to this point
Of course, I'm now down with this part....edited
this is the right way to save that vent
and a back shot
oh look, I even saved the build sheet
much better alignment
oops, the plastic is just falling off now
I think I'm getting the hang of this - this fender took 1 hour to remove, then get back to this point
Of course, I'm now down with this part....edited
this is the right way to save that vent
and a back shot
oh look, I even saved the build sheet
SuperBuickGuy
Well-known member
time to start coloring inbetween the lines... you know, all the boring stuff that must be done that didn't get covered on first swipe
like bolting the fuel pump in and finishing the lines
a couple zerts
and it's in place
then this, and I don't know what the solution is going to be... the fuel lines and the bracket occupy the same space
tried another fuel line, no joy
stopped with that annoyance and did a bit of rewiring
which lead into a lot of wiring
long ago, I learned the lesson about having operating gauges for first fire
and now to decide if I just finish with all similar gauges or save a couple bucks and put the fuel gauge and the clock back
lots of other stuff got done - mostly my wife's Jeep - but that one is going to wait until completion to be blogged....edited
like bolting the fuel pump in and finishing the lines
a couple zerts
and it's in place
then this, and I don't know what the solution is going to be... the fuel lines and the bracket occupy the same space
tried another fuel line, no joy
stopped with that annoyance and did a bit of rewiring
which lead into a lot of wiring
long ago, I learned the lesson about having operating gauges for first fire
and now to decide if I just finish with all similar gauges or save a couple bucks and put the fuel gauge and the clock back
lots of other stuff got done - mostly my wife's Jeep - but that one is going to wait until completion to be blogged....edited
SuperBuickGuy
Well-known member
so swapping bowls and accelerator pumps
and removal of a vacuum port
and figuring out how to get the line bent with no kinks
like this
then throttle cable
and repurpose the old air cleaner I made for P1 ... not final product, but good enough to keep the dust out
then do a vacuum test on the cooling system
no, it didn't hold pressure long, however, it did well enough that I'll fill the system just before I start it with far less fear that there are any major leaks
and removal of a vacuum port
and figuring out how to get the line bent with no kinks
like this
then throttle cable
and repurpose the old air cleaner I made for P1 ... not final product, but good enough to keep the dust out
then do a vacuum test on the cooling system
no, it didn't hold pressure long, however, it did well enough that I'll fill the system just before I start it with far less fear that there are any major leaks
SuperBuickGuy
Well-known member
I dunno, I've never run a sanctioned NHRA race in my life.... I do open track days and autocross (and would never dream of racing on the street... never :lol
yipee.... electrical
looks like it had a jacobs ignition box....edited
I just needed to remove the speedo cable
and then I found these Bubba devices
you will be glad to hear that the speakers have been removed.... now to reassemble with better wiring
for those curious, I'm tackling the wiring because I need gauges to work when I fire the motor.edited Not just that but I also need to wire the fuel pump, electric fans, and master switch.editededited
yipee.... electrical
looks like it had a jacobs ignition box....edited
I just needed to remove the speedo cable
and then I found these Bubba devices
you will be glad to hear that the speakers have been removed.... now to reassemble with better wiring
for those curious, I'm tackling the wiring because I need gauges to work when I fire the motor.edited Not just that but I also need to wire the fuel pump, electric fans, and master switch.editededited
SuperBuickGuy
Well-known member
this is going to happen soon
anyway, break is over... much little work done
gauges
and determining air filter height
3" filter, check
anyway, break is over... much little work done
gauges
and determining air filter height
3" filter, check
SuperBuickGuy
Well-known member
the Corvette got a bit of love today too... *hack*
I'm going to be a bit annoyed if I have to pull the sidepipes off to fix that lower corner
I'm going to be a bit annoyed if I have to pull the sidepipes off to fix that lower corner
rtj
Well-known member
- Joined
- Nov 5, 2011
- Messages
- 3,231
I think this is going to come out real nice.
Any plans for the rear diff, or just show restraint?
I’ve been watching that CF thread where they are doing the mustang irs with cv’s. I’m convinced, for a bunch of reasons, an enthusiast would still be better buying Tom’s stuff and building their own 12 bolt.
Any plans for the rear diff, or just show restraint?
I’ve been watching that CF thread where they are doing the mustang irs with cv’s. I’m convinced, for a bunch of reasons, an enthusiast would still be better buying Tom’s stuff and building their own 12 bolt.
SuperBuickGuy
Well-known member
Yes, but it's not on the list before I have it on the road. I really like the Detroit Speed setup, I have a greenwood set up... but at this point, I'm going to make it drive then update while driving it.
