C3/4/5 frankenstein frame

Bit more progress tonight... got my masters cut into the firewall and the pedal box mocked up. Also working on the positioning for the oil tank... it's going to be VERY tight with the planned cage routing, oil cooler and all the associated lines. Fingers crossed!
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I plan on cutting the fender "gutter" to allow for oil fill access. The drain is easily accessible underneath as well. I had ports welded on the tank for a level sight, but it's only a clear plastic hose with hose barbs... I'm worried that may fail and dump oil in close proximity to the headers so instead I'm going to see if I can find a low level sensor that will fit and hook it to my existing oil light.
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And the car at rideheight... 26" front fender height and 27" at the rear :cool:

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been making progress, just not able to host my pics anywhere (easily from my phone... working on that though!) Heres a couple that worked from the VM hosting:

335/30/18 mocked up, I know I said I was keeping this chassis under stock fenders, but I may or may not have messed up my total track width measurement :mobeer: According to my chassis build sheet, my tires are 72" outside to outside. 2" flares already on their way, and the subtle widebody idea has already grown on me. (I was going to run the 2" flares out back anyway)

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Cage is almost completed, forward-leaning radiator position and size is mocked up and ready to order, Mercedes electric PS pump is plumbed and fender gill-exit oil cooler is mocked up. Pics coming, I promise!
 
Wow - Where'd ya get those fancy "Ghost" rims?

I'm now looking at the Toyo R888R 335/30/18's for the 'vette too. Been real happy with the r888 on the sports racer. Maybe give up 3-4 seconds a lap (3.7mile course) -- but last 2 seasons.

Cheers - Jim
 
What kind of clearance do you have for deep backspacing? It will probably take 8.5-8.75 inches to get near zero scrub radius. I suspect your front clip has that much clearance built in, but the inner fender panels may be a problem.

Pappy
 
phantomjock said:
Wow - Where'd ya get those fancy "Ghost" rims?

I'm now looking at the Toyo R888R 335/30/18's for the 'vette too. Been real happy with the r888 on the sports racer. Maybe give up 3-4 seconds a lap (3.7mile course) -- but last 2 seasons.

Cheers - Jim
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They are experimental ultra lightweight wheels, Jim :harhar:
Ive heard good reviews with these tires, and they are one of the few that carry the rear size I need as well.

mfain said:
What kind of clearance do you have for deep backspacing? It will probably take 8.5-8.75 inches to get near zero scrub radius. I suspect your front clip has that much clearance built in, but the inner fender panels may be a problem.

Pappy
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Ill be trashing the stock inner fenders, one of the reasons being what you mentioned. In these pictures the tire is butted up against the inner fender, so no room for turning or tire squirm as-is. Ron had mentioned an 18x13 with 10" of backspacing but Ill be confirming this with him and using a wheel-fit tool as well.

denpo said:
did you try imgur.com for your pic hosting, it's free.
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I havent, ill have to see if they have a phone app to allow for mobile uploads
 
Did a quick search of the thread - couldn't find the answers. So I'll ask.

What is your wheel/tire plan? I note it will be Toyo R888Rs all around --Great choice I think. Obviously, the 335/35R18s were being trial fit up front. What's going on the rear? Are you going with a square setup with 335/18s - or up to the 345/35ZR19? What rims will you be using? Pics of the rims - as time permits. Find any good deals? Any thoughts on getting "blank" custom drilled wheels?

I'm in the market soon will be after the wheels & tires too. Looking at the 18s on rear and maybe down to 17s up front - or else a square setup. You're making great progress. I'm inspired.

Cheers - Jim
 
Forgeline wheels... likely an 18x12.5 in the front and a 19x13 in the rear for a 345/30/19. They have a wheel that looks similar to my BMW wheels that I ran previously. I’m waiting for the flares to come in so I can get the fitment perfect.
 
vette427sbc said:
SuperBuickGuy said:
what flares did you get?
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Custom Image 2inch front and an "anti-mudflap" 2inch for the rear
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Let me know how they look, a friend of mine has the 2/2 flares. I have 2/4 - what's interesting between him and I is he just told me he wished he went with 4 inch rears but he used the 75 up rear cover and thinks the 4 inch flows better (so it's more a taste thing then anything else). He also doesn't like the CIC tail (which, honestly, was the thing which convinced me to go with them)
 
So the flares came in today... Fronts are perfect, I like the way they look and the fitup looks good so far. The rears are... not what I was hoping for. The flare design looks nice, the panel is nice, and my mudflap delete came out great. What kills me is that the wheel opening is almost 2" LOWER than the stock wheel opening. I always thought that all these flared cars that Ive been looking at looked taller than mine even though there is the same wheel gap... now to chop up my $1100 rear quarters... :rain:
 
In other and better news, heres some of the update pics:

Firewall brace re-worked for the balance bar setup. The cutout for the key lockout lever was filled to strengthen the piece. Im going to bond it to the firewall instead of the factory rivets... I feel like more bonding area will make this section much more rigid. (Anyone know why theres an Omega stamp of this piece? Its never been off the car before...)
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And some radiator mockup... 14" x 27.5" Double pass. Going to toss the hood on to make sure I can still open it all the way, but from the looks of it, this is my size and placement
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I'll post a link to Regis thread tomorrow - he's my neighbor and bought the 2/2 combination like yours. I don't remember it being 2" lower... I do know that a lot of trimming is required.... I guess my thought is looking at his thread and I can pop over for measurements - because that lower comment doesn't jive with what I've seen.... of course, I was told they 'improved' the design so I dunno....
 
My Christmas present from the family "I hope you never actually use this" :lol: Safecraft 5lb Fire system. It uses 3M Novec 1230 chemical. It really is a no brainer even if I wasnt going to track this car... I was sold on this idea when I was given this scenario:
say youre doing 100mph and you notice the car is on fire. You need to stop the car (assuming all systems are still working properly), un buckle, get out and then fumble for your fire extinguisher. At LEAST a minute, more if the fire extinguisher isnt easily accessible. And thats just to save the car... If all hell breaks loose and the interior (you!) are on fire, a fire system can buy some very valuable time. I was going to put a fire extinguisher in here anyway, so whats the big deal to add 20 ft of aluminum line and a pull cable? Ill step off my soap box now...

So the A-pillar bar required the relocation of the light switch, leaving an ugly hole that isnt easily fillable... killed two birds with one stone! Easy access for me while strapped in, and for a corner worker to grab through the window


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Im going to run an under-dash, engine compartment and fuel pump/tank nozzle. Ill likely have the tank in the passenger side storage compartment to keep it low, centrally located, and the head away from anything that could accidentally knock into it
 
After much mental debate... Ive decided on an alternator. NipponDenso Mini... My worst case scenario amp draw exceeds what these are capable of (90A rebuilt); BUT that scenario is mostly avoidable (parallel parking with headlights on, blower motor on, rad fans on, radio on, the low engine RPM and electric power steering pump at max draw) If its unavoidable, its only for a second or two and the battery can fill in the missing amperage. Ill deal with the lights dimming for a few seconds to gain:
Less weight, lower mounting position, more clearance on other parts, more radiator ducting room.
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I have also moved the oil cooler thermostat to the right (in these pictures) of the steering rack to lessen the cooler line lengths, and make room for the lower radiator hose. Unfortunately, this means extending the lines for the PS cooler to the passengers side. BUT this gives me more room to play with oil tank position and keeps the oil cooler lines further from the headers. Everything is finally finding its home after months of flip-flop design changes :mobeer:
 
That is nice and tidy. For most situations, it will probably be adequate as you say. How often would you be at a max load condition for long enough to actually drain the battery? Probably not too often. I think the packaging benefits will far outweigh the potential overload issue.
 
Red77 said:
That is nice and tidy. For most situations, it will probably be adequate as you say. How often would you be at a max load condition for long enough to actually drain the battery? Probably not too often. I think the packaging benefits will far outweigh the potential overload issue.
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Thanks! While the battery is quite small, I agree... the power steering pump is actually supposed to connect to the charge light terminal on the alternator so it would in theory turn off until the load is lessened but I want everything except the pump to shut off in that scenario. I think too much... back to work so I can drive this thing and prove my theory wrong :flash:
 
phantomjock said:
vette427sbc said:
After much mental debate...to gain:
Less weight, lower mounting position, more clearance on other parts, more radiator ducting room.
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Oh... LESS Weight, Clearance, UMMMM .. . ducting.... Ummm I like!


Pictures please.

Cheers Jim
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Hopefully Ill have some pictures really worth posting soon...
Custom lay down/hood exit radiator is in the design phase with Howe Racing, I just got my PS cooler from Improved racing to match the oil cooler (these are kick ass pieces, Ill post a few pics of them with a worthy camera) and my fittings for the anti-cooler (vintage air heater!!) should be here shortly.
 
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