SuperBuickGuy
Well-known member
pictures .... my imaginator is on the fritz
C3/4/5 frankenstein frame
- Thread starter vette427sbc
- Start date
69427
The Artist formerly known as Turbo84
Did I miss a picture or post of what battery you're planning to use? Please pardon the oversight if I missed it.
I'm using the same design alternator as you. I'm still in the process of trying to find a low cost pulley replacement (ie: larger diameter) for it. Even with my underdrive crank pulley the alternator has got to be turning some serious RPM during track days.
vette427sbc
Well-known member
I was running an odyssey PC680 (15.4lbs) but I think I’m going to try their PC625 (13.2lbs). What is the pulley ratio on your alternator? Mine is 1.45:1 overdrive. I’m thinking I may need to drive it even more but at 6500RPM the alternator is already closing in on 10k rpm. I inquired about the max recommended shaft speed but I’m not holding my breath waiting for a response...
69427
The Artist formerly known as Turbo84
I calculated my pulley ratio to be 2.3:1, so it's turning a bit faster at times on the track than I care for or need.
vette427sbc
Well-known member
That’s good to know yours works with rpms like that... I need to get max amperage as soon as possible so I may up my ratio to something close to yours
mfain
Well-known member
This thread has a pretty good discussion of light weight batteries.
Pappy
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forum...cing/4229909-lightweight-racing-batterys.html
69427
The Artist formerly known as Turbo84
A major milestone tonight! Looking through my photos, it shows I took the body off on November 30th 2014!! Thankfully I didn't hit 4 whole years :3rd:
................
I've got a few places to trim for 100% fitment but otherwise all went fairly smooth! My goal is to have a car that moves under its own power by New Year's Day... back to work!
Any chance your original fuel tank is available to get an empty weight?
Absolutely no rush, obviously, but thanks for any help.
vette427sbc
Well-known member
Small, but some progress... TSP Performance 90A alternator came in along with some Jones Racing HTD pullies. The water pump is 1:1 and the alternator is 2:1. I trimmed down the alternator pulley a bit on the lathe to get it closer to the case so I can keep everything as tight as possible to the motor.
22lbs with the cap and sender still installed :drink:
22lbs with the cap and sender still installed :drink:
69427
The Artist formerly known as Turbo84
Thank you. :thumbs:
vette427sbc
Well-known member
Slowly picking away at the ever-growing list of to-do's...
I got the firewall brace bonded to the firewall, finally. I used 3M 08115 Panel bond. My goal was to use the panel bond instead of the rivets to increase rigidity so that I would get less flex, and therefore better pedal response under hard braking.
Next on the list is the heater hoses... Intake side is done, I still have to make a 1/2NPT to 45* -10AN for the waterpump side
Header mockup is done... had to re-route #1 tube so that I can run a straight shaft with only 2 joints, which also gives me more clearance for the oil cooler lines. Thats two things on my list taken care of with one modification :hunter:
And lastly, the clutch master reservoir line is finished. I tried to figure out how to get an AN fitting on the master, but the inlet is too large to machine and tap for a banjo thread. Keeping it simple for now with a short rubber hose connection.
I got the firewall brace bonded to the firewall, finally. I used 3M 08115 Panel bond. My goal was to use the panel bond instead of the rivets to increase rigidity so that I would get less flex, and therefore better pedal response under hard braking.
Next on the list is the heater hoses... Intake side is done, I still have to make a 1/2NPT to 45* -10AN for the waterpump side
Header mockup is done... had to re-route #1 tube so that I can run a straight shaft with only 2 joints, which also gives me more clearance for the oil cooler lines. Thats two things on my list taken care of with one modification :hunter:
And lastly, the clutch master reservoir line is finished. I tried to figure out how to get an AN fitting on the master, but the inlet is too large to machine and tap for a banjo thread. Keeping it simple for now with a short rubber hose connection.
vette427sbc
Well-known member
Power steering pump bracket... The pump mounts using the two top rubber isolated bolts, and Ill have to make a piece of poly to secure the bottom of the motor with the bracket with a hose clamp or something similar. The two slots at the bottom are for the hose clamp to pass through.
vette427sbc
Well-known member
Crossed this off of my "list of things to do, that I forgot to write on my list of things to do"
Part of my balance bar project was figuring out where to put the bias adjust... Easy to access, short cable run and make it not look too out of place.
Part of my balance bar project was figuring out where to put the bias adjust... Easy to access, short cable run and make it not look too out of place.
mfain
Well-known member
Crossed this off of my "list of things to do, that I forgot to write on my list of things to do"
Part of my balance bar project was figuring out where to put the bias adjust... Easy to access, short cable run and make it not look too out of place.
That should work!
vette427sbc
Well-known member
A bunch of small projects coming to completion!
Pedal box back from paint, so the brakes are much closer to putting fluid in!
The last of the heater hose fabrication is finished, lines tightened and crossed off the list
Pedal box back from paint, so the brakes are much closer to putting fluid in!
The last of the heater hose fabrication is finished, lines tightened and crossed off the list
SRountree
Well-known member
Looks really clean!
SuperBuickGuy
Well-known member
looks very good
vette427sbc
Well-known member
Rear tire showed up for mockup/wheel fitment... 345/30/19 Toyo R888R
a 2.5" flare would give me ample clearance on the frame and wheel tubs, I may run it a bit tighter to the frame once I get the wheel fit tool and see where everything ends up. For now its just thrown in with no account for camber or toe. It sure looks beefy!
Also been plugging away at the interior wiring harness... Almost done... Enough to get it started with basic function. Keeping homage to the euro details on the car, I used Tessa cloth tape and half-wrapped sections like alot of newer Mercedes and BMW's. Almost everything is connectorized to make servicing or removing the interior quick and easy. A few switches are just regular male spades and in the interest of driving this thing ASAP, I just left them alone for now. In the future they will be properly terminated
phantomjock
Well-known member
Flares will be nice. With - or without the "mud-flaps?"
Looks like we've found the same wire-wrap materials (Alex-Tech?). It is the "fabric" that wraps/expands around like a tube? Not cheap - but way better than the old plastic spiral wraps! Understand no melt until about 400F.
Cheers - Jim
Looks like we've found the same wire-wrap materials (Alex-Tech?). It is the "fabric" that wraps/expands around like a tube? Not cheap - but way better than the old plastic spiral wraps! Understand no melt until about 400F.
Cheers - Jim
mfain
Well-known member
Rear tire showed up for mockup/wheel fitment... 345/30/19 Toyo R888R
a 2.5" flare would give me ample clearance on the frame and wheel tubs, I may run it a bit tighter to the frame once I get the wheel fit tool and see where everything ends up. For now its just thrown in with no account for camber or toe. It sure looks beefy!
looking GOOD! Out of curiosity why did you go with a 19" tire? There are a lot more tire choices, especially in track tires, in the 18" size.
